Vancouver is a young city, even by
North American standards. It was not yet a town when British Columbia
became part of the Canadian confederation in 1871. The city's history,
such as it is, remains visible to the naked eye: eras are stacked east
to west along the waterfront, from cobblestone late-Victorian Gastown
to shiny postmodern glass cathedrals of commerce.
The Chinese, among the first to recognize the possibilities of
Vancouver's setting, came to British Columbia during the 1850s seeking
the gold that inspired them to name the province Gum-shan, or Gold
Mountain. As laborers they built the Canadian Pacific Railway, giving
Vancouver a purpose---one beyond the natural splendor that Royal Navy
captain George Vancouver admired during his lunchtime cruise around
its harbor on June 13, 1792. The Canadian transcontinental railway,
along with the city's Great White Fleet of clipper ships, gave
Vancouver a full week's edge over the California ports in shipping tea
and silk to New York at the end of the 19th century.
For its original inhabitants, the Coast Salish peoples, Vancouver was
the sacred spot where the mythical Thunderbird and Killer Whale flung
wind and rain all about the heavens during their epic battles. How
else to explain the coast's fits of meteorological temper? Devotees of
a later religious tradition might worship in the groves of Stanley
Park or in the fir and cedar interior of Christ Church Cathedral, the
city's oldest church.
Vancouver, with a metropolitan-area population of about 2 million, is
booming. The mild climate, exquisite natural scenery, and relaxed,
outdoor lifestyle is attracting new residents to British Columbia's
business center, and the number of visitors is increasing for the same
reasons. Many people get their first glimpse of Vancouver when
catching an Alaskan cruise, and many return at some point to spend
more time here.
Arriving and Departing |
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| By
Air |
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| Vancouver
International Airport ( Grant McConachie Way, Richmond, tel.
604/276-6101) is on Sea Island, about 23 km (14 mi) south of
downtown off Highway 99. An airport-improvement fee is assessed
on all flight departures: $5 for flights within British Columbia
or the Yukon, $10 for other flights within North America, and
$15 for overseas flights. Major credit cards (AE, DC, MC, V) and
Canadian and U.S. currency are accepted.
American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300), Continental
(tel. 800/525-0280), Delta (tel. 604/221-1212 or
800/221-1212), Horizon Air (tel. 800/547-9308), and United
(tel. 800/241-6522) fly into the airport. The two major domestic
airlines are Air Canada (tel. 604/688-5515 or
800/776-3000) and Canadian Airlines (tel. 604/279-6611 or
800/426-7000).
Flying time is 6 1/2 hours from Montréal, 4 hours from
Chicago, 2 1/2 hours from Los Angeles.
Air B.C. (tel. 604/688-5515 or 800/776-3000) operated
by Air Canada, serves destinations around the province including
the Vancouver airport. Helijet Airways (tel. 800/665-4354
or 604/273-1414) has helicopter service from downtown Vancouver
to downtown Victoria. The heliport is near Vancouver's Pan
Pacific Hotel.
Between the Airport and Town
The drive from the airport to downtown takes 20 to 45
minutes, depending on the time of day. Airport hotels offer free
shuttle service to and from the airport.
The Vancouver Airporter Service (tel. 604/946-8866)
bus leaves the international and domestic arrivals levels of the
terminal building approximately every half hour, stopping at
major downtown hotels. It operates from 5:23 AM until midnight.
The fare is $10 one way and $17 round-trip.
Taxi stands are in front of the terminal building on domestic
and international arrivals levels. Taxi fare to downtown is
about $22. Area cab companies are Yellow (tel.
604/681-1111) and Black Top (tel. 604/681-2181).
Limousine service from Airlimo (tel. 604/273-1331)
costs a bit more than the taxi fare to downtown: The current
rate is about $34.
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| By
Bus |
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| Greyhound
Lines (tel. 604/482-8747 or 800/661-8747) is the largest bus
line serving Vancouver. The Pacific Central Station (1150
Station St.) is the depot.
Quick Shuttle (tel. 604/940-4428 or 800/665-2122) bus
service runs between Vancouver and Seattle five times a day in
winter and up to eight times a day in summer.
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| By
Car |
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| From the south,
I-5 from Seattle becomes Route 99 at the U.S.-Canada
border. Vancouver is a three-hour drive (226 kilometers, or 140
miles) from Seattle. Avoid border crossings during peak times
such as holidays and weekends.
Route 1, the Trans-Canada Highway, enters Vancouver
from the east. To avoid traffic, arrive after rush hour (8:30
AM).
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| By
Ferry |
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| B.C. Ferries
(250/386-3431; 888/223-3779 in British Columbia only) operates
two major ferry terminals outside Vancouver. From Tsawwassen to
the south (an hour's drive from downtown), ferries sail to
Victoria and Nanaimo on Vancouver Island and to the Gulf Islands
(the small islands between the mainland and Vancouver Island).
From Horseshoe Bay (30 minutes north of downtown), ferries sail
a short distance across the strait and up the coast to Nanaimo
on Vancouver Island.
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| By
Train |
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| The Pacific
Central Station (1150 Station St.) at Main Street and
Terminal Avenue, near the Main Street SkyTrain station, is the
hub for rail service.
VIA Rail (800/561-8630 in Canada, 800/561-3949 in the
U.S.) provides transcontinental service through Jasper to
Toronto three times a week.
Amtrak (PHONE: 800/872-7245)
operates the Mt. Baker International train between
Seattle and Vancouver, and the Cascades high-speed train
between Vancouver and Eugene, Oregon.
The B.C. Rail Station (1311 W. 1st St., PHONE:
604/631-3500; 800/339-8752 in British Columbia;
800/663-8238 outside British Columbia) in North Vancouver serves
Whistler and the interior of British Columbia.
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| Contacts
and Resources |
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| Business
Hours |
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| Banks
traditionally are open Monday through Thursday 10 to 3 and
Friday 10 to 6, but many banks have extended hours and are open
on Saturday, particularly those outside downtown.
Museums are generally open 10-5, including Saturday
and Sunday. Most are open one evening a week as well.
Department store hours are Monday through Wednesday
and Saturday 9:30 to 6, Thursday and Friday 9:30 to 9, and
Sunday noon to 5. Many smaller stores are also open Sunday.
National holidays are: New Year's Day (Jan. 1), Good Friday
(March or April), Easter Monday (March or April), Victoria Day
(4th Mon. in May), Canada Day (July 1), Labour Day (1st Mon. in
Sept.) Thanksgiving (2nd Mon. in Oct.) Remembrance Day (November
11), Christmas (December 25), and Boxing Day (December 26).
British Columbia Day (1st Mon. in Aug.) is a provincial
holiday.
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| Customs
& Duties |
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| Visitors may
bring in the following items duty-free: 200 cigarettes, 50
cigars, and 14 ounces of tobacco; 1 bottle (1.1 liters or 40
imperial ounces) of liquor or wine, or 24 355-milliliter
(12-ounce) bottles or cans of beer for personal consumption;
gifts up to the value of C$60 per gift. A deposit is sometimes
required for trailers (refunded upon return). Cats and dogs must
have a certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian that
clearly identifies the animal and certifies that it has been
vaccinated against rabies during the preceding 36 months. Plant
material must be declared and inspected. With certain
restrictions (some fruits and vegetables), visitors may bring
food with them for their own use, providing the quantity is
consistent with the duration of the visit.
Canada's firearms laws are significantly stricter than the
U.S.'s. All handguns, semi-automatic, and fully automatic
weapons are prohibited and cannot be brought into the country.
Sporting rifles and shotguns may be imported provided they are
to be used for sporting, hunting, or competition while in
Canada. All firearms must be declared to Canada Customs at the
first point of entry. Failure to declare firearms will result in
their seizure, and criminal charges may be made.
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| Emergencies |
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| Call 911 for police,
fire department, and ambulance.
Doctors & Dentists
Doctors are on call through the emergency ward at St.
Paul's Hospital (1081 Burrard St., tel. 604/682-2344), a
downtown facility open around the clock.
Medicentre (1055 Dunsmuir St., lower level, tel.
604/683-8138), a drop-in clinic in the Bentall Centre, is open
weekdays.
The dental counterpart to Medicentre is Dentacentre
(1055 Dunsmuir St., lower level, tel. 604/669-6700), which is
next door and is also open weekdays.
Late-Night Pharmacies
Shopper's Drug Mart (1125 Davie St., tel.
604/685-6445) offers 24-hour pharmacy service daily.
Consulates
Australia (1225-888 Dunsmuir St., 604/684-1177).
New Zealand (1200-888 Dunsmuir St., 604/684-7388).
United States (1095 W. Pender St., tel. 604/685-4311).
United Kingdom (800-1111 Melville St., tel.
604/683-4421).
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| Mail |
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| In Canada you
can buy stamps at the post office or from automatic vending
machines in most hotel lobbies, railway stations, airports, and
bus terminals, as well as in many retail outlets and at some
newsstands. Within Canada, postcards and letters up to 30 grams
cost 46¢; between 31 grams and 50 grams, the cost is 73¢; and
between 51 grams and 100 grams, the cost is 92¢. Letters and
postcards to the United States cost 55¢ for up to 30 grams, 80¢
for between 31 and 50 grams, and $1.25 for up to 100 grams.
Prices include GST (Goods and Services Tax).
International mail and postcards run 95¢ for up to 20 grams,
$1.45 for between 21 and 50 grams, and $2.35 for between 51 and
100 grams.
Telepost is a fast "next day or sooner" service
that combines the CN/CP Telecommunications network with
letter-carrier delivery service. Messages may be telephoned to
the nearest CN/CP Public Message Centre for delivery anywhere in
Canada or the United States. Telepost service is available 24
hours a day, seven days a week, and billing arrangements may be
made at the time the message is called in. Intelpost allows you
to send documents or photographs via satellite to many Canadian,
American, and European destinations. This service is available
at main postal facilities in Canada, and is paid for in cash.
Receiving Mail
Visitors may have mail sent to them general delivery.
Envelopes should be addressed to the recipient, c/o GD / PR STN
/ SUCC TERMINAL, Vancouver, BC, Canada, V6B 3P7. Mail must be
picked up in person within 15 days or it will be returned to the
sender.
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| Money |
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| American money
is accepted in much of Canada (especially in communities near
the border). However, visitors are encouraged to change at least
some of their money into Canadian funds at a bank or other
financial institution in order to get the most favorable
exchange rate. Traveler's checks (some are available in Canadian
dollars) and major U.S. credit cards are accepted in most areas.
Currency
The units of currency in Canada are the Canadian dollar (C$)
and the cent, in almost the same denominations as U.S. currency
($5, $10, $20, 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, etc.). The $1 and $2 bill
are no longer used; they have been replaced by $1 and $2 coins
(known respectively as a "loonie," because of the loon
that appears on the coin, and a "toonie."
Taxes
A goods and services tax of 7% (GST) applies on virtually
every transaction in Canada except for the purchase of basic
groceries. In addition, in British Columbia, consumers pay a 7%
sales tax, which does not apply to food, ferries, or
accommodations. A tax of 10%, however, is levied on
accommodations and alcoholic beverages sold in bars and
restaurants.
You can get a GST refund on purchases taken out of the
country and on short-term accommodations of less than one month
(but not on food, drink, tobacco, car or motor home rentals, or
transportation); rebate forms, which must be submitted within 60
days of your leaving Canada, may be obtained from certain
retailers, duty-free shops, customs officials, or from Revenue
Canada. Some duty-free shops provide instant cash rebates up to
a maximum of $500 when you leave Canada, and most provinces do
not tax goods that the vendor ships directly to your home.
Always save your original receipts from stores and hotels
(not just credit-card receipts), and be sure the name and
address of the establishment is shown on the receipt. Original
receipts are not returned. To be eligible for a refund, receipts
must total at least $200, and each individual receipt must show
a minimum purchase of $50.
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| Packing |
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| What you pack
will depend on when you go and what you plan to do. Layering is
the best defense against Canada's cold winters; a hat, scarf,
and gloves are essential. For summer travel, loose-fitting
natural-fiber clothes are best; bring a wool sweater and light
jacket. Pack both casual clothes for day touring and more formal
wear for evenings out.
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| Passports
& Visas |
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| U.S.
Citizens
Citizens and legal residents of the United States do not need
a passport or a visa to enter Canada, but proof of citizenship
(a birth certificate or valid passport) and proof of identity
may be requested. Naturalized U.S. residents should carry their
naturalization certificate or "green card." U.S.
residents entering Canada from a third country must have a valid
passport, naturalization certificate, or "green card."
U.K. Citizens
Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to
enter Canada for stays of up to six months. Children under 16
may travel on an accompanying parent's passport.
Consulates
Australia (1225-888 Dunsmuir St., 604/684-1177), New
Zealand (1200-888 Dunsmuir St., 604/684-7388), United
Kingdom (800-1111 Melville St., tel. 604/683-4421), United
States (1095 W. Pender St., tel. 604/685-4311).
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| Sightseeing
Tours |
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| Orientation
Gray Line (tel. 604/879-3363 or 800/667-0882), the
largest tour operator, offers the 3½-hour Grand City bus tour
year-round. The tour picks up at all major downtown hotels and
includes Stanley Park, Chinatown, Gastown, English Bay, and
Queen Elizabeth Park. The fee is about $39. From May through
October, Gray Line also has a narrated city tour aboard
double-decker buses. Passengers can get on and off as they
choose and can travel free the next day. Adult fare is about
$22.
The one-hour Stanley Park Horse Drawn Tours
(604/681-5115) operate March 15 to October 31 and cost $16.80
per person ($52.30 for a family of four).
The tours leave every 20 to 30 minutes from near the
information booth on Stanley Park Drive. During the spring,
summer, and fall, Westcoast City and Nature Sightseeing
(tel. 604/451-5581) accommodates up to 24 people in vans that
run a 3½-hour City Highlights Tour for about $40 (pickup
available from any downtown location).
The Vancouver Trolley Company (tel. 604/801-5515 or
888/451-5581) runs turn-of-the-century-style trolleys through
Vancouver from April to October on a 2-hour narrated tour of
Stanley Park, Gastown, English Bay, Granville Island, and
Chinatown, among other sights. A day pass allows you to complete
one full circuit, getting off and on as often as you like. Start
the trip at any of the sights and buy a ticket on board. Adult
fare is $23. During the rest of the year, the trolley runs the
same circuit on a 2½-hour trip, but no on-off option is
available.
North Shore tours usually include any or several of the
following: a gondola ride up Grouse Mountain, a walk across the
Capilano Suspension Bridge, a stop at a salmon hatchery, the
Lonsdale Quay Market, and a ride back to town on the SeaBus.
Half-day tours cost anywhere from $45 to $55 and are offered by Landsea
Tours (tel. 604/255-7272), Gray Line (tel.
604/879-3363), and Pacific Coach Lines (tel.
604/662-7575).
Air Tours
Tour the mountains and fjords of the North Shore by
helicopter for around $200 per person (minimum of three people)
for 45 minutes: Vancouver Helicopters (tel. 604/270-1484)
flies from the Harbour Heliport downtown. Or see Vancouver from
the air for $82 for 30 minutes: Harbour Air's (tel.
604/688-1277) seaplanes leave from beside the Westin Bayshore
Hotel.
Boat Tours
Harbour Cruises (1 N. Denman St., 604/688-7246), at
the north foot of Denman Street on Coal Harbour, operates a 1¼-hour
narrated tour of Burrard Inlet aboard the paddle wheeler Constitution.
Tours are given from April through October and cost less than
$20. Harbour Cruises also offers sunset dinner cruises and
four-hour lunch cruises up scenic Indian Arm and links with the Royal
Hudson, Canada's only functioning steam train, to make a
daylong boat-train excursion to Howe Sound.
Paddlewheeler River Adventures (810 Quayside Dr., New
Westminster, tel. 604/525-4465 or 877/825-1302), in the
Information Centre at Westminster Quay, will take you out on the
Fraser River in an 1800s-style paddle wheeler. Choose from a
three-hour tour of the working river, a day trip to historic
Fort Langley, a sunset dinner cruise, or a Friday night martini
cruise.
Personal Guides
Early Motion Tours (tel. 604/687-5088) will pick you
up for a tour of Vancouver in a Model-A Ford convertible. Up to
four people can take an hour-long trip around downtown,
Chinatown, and Stanley Park.
Vancouver All-Terrain Adventures (tel. 604/434-2278 or
888/754-5601) offers customized city tours in a luxury
four-wheel drive Suburban at $75 an hour for up to seven
passengers.
Individualized tours in six European languages are available
from VIP Tourguide Services (tel. 604/214-4677).
Walking Tours
During the summer, students from the Architectural
Institute of British Columbia (tel. 604/683-8588) lead free
walking tours of the city's top heritage sites.
The Gastown Business Improvement Society (tel.
604/683-5650) sponsors free 90-minute historical and
architectural walking tours daily June-August. Meet the guide at
2 PM at the statue of Gassy Jack in Maple Tree Square.
Ninety-minute walking tours of Chinatown leave from the Chinese
Cultural Centre (50 E. Pender St., 604/687-7993) daily, on
the hour from 10 to 4 and cost $5.
Rockwood Adventures (tel. 604/926-7705 or
888/236-6606) has guided walks around Vancouver neighborhoods,
including Gastown, Granville Island, and Chinatown, and a
special walk for art lovers.
Guides with Walkabout Historic Vancouver (tel.
604/720-0006) take on the costume and the character of early
residents for their two-hour historical walking tours around
Downtown and Gastown or Granville Island. Tours run year-round.
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| Tipping |
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| Tips and service
charges are not usually added to a bill in Canada. In general,
tip 15% of the total bill. This goes for waiters, waitresses,
barbers and hairdressers, taxi drivers, etc. Porters and doormen
should get about $1 a bag (or more in a luxury hotel). For maid
service, $1 a day is sufficient ($2 in luxury hotels).
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| Visitor
Information |
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| Vancouver
Tourist Info Centre (200 Burrard St., tel. 604/683-2000)
provides maps and information about the city and is open July
and August daily 8 to 6; the remainder of the year, weekdays
8:30 to 5, Saturday 9 to 5. A kiosk in Pacific Centre Mall is
open Tuesday through Friday only; hours are 10 to 6 in summer,
10 to 5 in winter. Eaton's department store downtown also has a
tourist information counter that is open all year.
Discover B.C. (tel. 800/663-6000) is available
year-round to assist with tourist information and reservations.
Travel Agencies
American Express Travel Service (1040 W. Georgia St.,
tel. 604/669-2813), Mirage Holidays (14-200 Burrard St.,
tel. 604/685-4008), P. Lawson Travel (409 Granville St.,
Suite 150, tel. 604/682-4272).
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| When
to Go |
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| Tempered by a
warm Japan current and protected by the mountains from the
extreme weather conditions found inland, the coastal region of
British Columbia experiences a mild climate. Winters are the
country's warmest, with rainfall almost inevitable. Summers are
fairly sunny, but seldom oppressively hot.
Climate
Average maximum and minimum temperatures for Vancouver are as
follows: Jan.-Mar., 33-45°F (1-7°C); Apr.-June, 41-65°F (5-18°C);
July-Sept., 52-70°F (11-22°C); Oct.-Dec., 35-56°F (2-13°C).
Festivals and Seasonal Events
Winter
The Carol Ships, sailboats full of carolers and
decorated with colored lights, ply the waters of the Vancouver
harbor in December.
The Polar Bear Swim on New Year's Day is said to bring
good luck all year.
Spring
March
The Pacific Rim Whale Festival on Vancouver Island's
west coast celebrates the spring migration of gray whales with
guided tours by whale experts and accompanying music and
dancing.
The Vancouver International Wine Festival is also held
at this time.
In May, the Vancouver Children's Festival provides
free open-air stage performances.
Summer
June
Vancouver's Canadian International Dragon Boat Festival
includes entertainment, exotic foods, and races between long,
slender boats decorated with huge dragon heads, an event based
on the ancient "awakening the dragons" ritual.
July's Vancouver Sea Festival celebrates the city's
nautical heritage with the World Championship Bathtub Race,
sailing regattas, and windsurfing races.
In August, The Pacific National Exhibition in
Vancouver has parades, exhibits, sports, entertainment, and
logging contests.
Autumn
In September cars speed through downtown Vancouver in the Molson
Indy Formula 1 race.
The Vancouver International Film Festival is held in
October.
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| Getting
Around |
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| By
Bus |
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| Exact change is
needed to ride TransLink (PHONE: 604/521-0400)
buses: $1.50 for normal rides or $2.25 for weekday trips to the
suburbs, including the SeaBus to the North Shore. Books of 10
tickets are sold at convenience stores and newsstands; look for
a red, white, and blue "fare dealer" sign. Day passes,
good for unlimited travel all day, cost $6. They are available
from fare dealers and at any SeaBus or SkyTrain station.
Transfers (ask for one when you board) are valid for 90 minutes,
allow travel in both directions, and are good on buses, SkyTrain,
and SeaBus. A "Discover Vancouver on Transit" guide is
available free at the Tourist Info Centre. Buses to West
Vancouver (on the North Shore) are operated by West Vancouver
Blue Buses (PHONE: 604/985-7777).
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| By
Car |
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| Because no
freeways cross Vancouver, rush-hour traffic still tends to be
horrendous. The worst bottlenecks outside the city center are
the North Shore bridges, the George Massey Tunnel on Route 99
south of Vancouver, and Route 1 through Coquitlam and Surrey.
Parking spaces downtown are both expensive and tricky to find.
Requirements
Drivers must have proof of insurance coverage, which is
compulsory in Canada. The Canadian Non-Resident Inter-Provincial
Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card, available from any U.S.
insurance company, is accepted as evidence of financial
responsibility anywhere in Canada. For more information, contact
the Insurance Bureau of Canada (181 University Ave., Toronto,
Ontario, M5H 3M7, tel. 416/362-2301).
Car Rental
To rent a car, contact Avis Rent A Car (tel.
604/689-2847 or 800/879-2847), Budget Rent A Car (tel.
604/668-7000; in the U.S., 800/527-0700), or Thrifty Car
Rental (tel. 604/688-2207 or 800/367-2277). Rates in
Vancouver begin at $22 a day and $148 a week, not including tax,
which is 14%.
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| By
Ferry |
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| The SeaBus
is a 400-passenger commuter ferry that crosses Burrard Inlet
from Waterfront Station downtown to the foot of Lonsdale Avenue
in North Vancouver. The ride takes 13 minutes and costs the same
as the TransLink bus. With a transfer, connection can be made to
any TransLink bus or SkyTrain. Aquabus Ferries (PHONE:
604/689-5858) and False Creek Ferries (PHONE:
604/684-7781), which are not part of the TransLink
system, connect several stations on False Creek, including
Science World, Granville Island, Stamp's Landing, Yaletown,
Vanier Park, and the Hornby Street dock. Some Aquabus Ferries
can take bicycles. The company also operates a historic 1950s
wooden ferry on some runs.
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| By
Rail |
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| Part of an
effort to revive streetcar service around False Creek, the
volunteer-run Downtown Historic Railway (PHONE:
604/665-3903) operates two restored electric trams (built
in 1905 and 1913) along a 5-km (3-mi) track between Science
World and Granville Island. The trams, which also stop at First
Avenue and Ontario Street and at Leg-in-Boot Square, near Sixth
Avenue and Moberly Street, operate 12:30 to 5 PM weekends and
holidays from late May to early October. The adult fare is $2.
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| By
Rapid Transit |
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| A one-line,
25-km (16-mi) rapid-transit system called SkyTrain (PHONE:
604/521-0400) travels underground downtown and is
elevated for the rest of its route to New Westminster and
Surrey. A new line to Coquitlam is to be completed by 2001.
Trains leave about every five minutes. Tickets, sold at each
station from machines (correct change is not necessary), must be
carried with you as proof of payment. You may use transfers from
SkyTrain to SeaBus and TransLink buses and vice versa. SkyTrain
is convenient for transit between downtown, B.C. Place Stadium,
Pacific Central Station, and Science World.
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| By
Taxi |
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| It is difficult
to hail a cab in Vancouver; unless you're near a hotel, you'll
have better luck calling a taxi service. Try Yellow (tel.
604/681-1111) or Black Top (tel. 604/681-2181).
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